Tutorial: How to install SAP Data Services 4.2 – Part 1
Super Install system for NO REVOKE OR CRASH NEW NATIVE APP: iOSGG APP PRO Check now! Join our discord server for additional content. Modded Android apps free download. Which is best website to download cracked softwares? https://torgline26.ru/download/?file=197. That means the remaining primary competitor is the Sigma 24-105mm f/4.0 DG OS HSM Art Lens. If you change the label in the designer user interface, the display in the JScript viewer is aligned in real time. The parallel implementation was developed using MPI and run on a 64-node Linux cluster.
EMUI Themes - Themes Tool Suite - HUAWEI Developer
Free program ibm spss. These include an improved activity programming model, an improved designer experience, a new flowchart modeling style, an expanded activity palette, workflow-rules integration, and new message correlation features. For workflow definitions in Azure Logic Apps and Power Automate, some expressions get their values from runtime actions that might not yet exist when your workflow starts running. Aps Designer 4.0 was added to DownloadKeeper this week and last updated on 09-Sep-2020. References to "The Silent Age" are authorized by House On Fire Aps.
|1||Aps Designer Software - Free Download Aps Designer||36%|
|2||Professional Embroidery Software - Welcome to Cracked||22%|
|3||Aps Designer 4.0 For Windows 7 64 Bit Download Torrentl||27%|
|4||Aps designer 4.0 free download (Windows)||68%|
|5||Aps Designer - CNET Download||54%|
|6||ORIGINAL INSTRUCTION MANUAL||50%|
|7||Connected, Intelligent, Automated: The Definitive Guide to||69%|
|8||Amazon.com: Customer reviews: APS Compatible with 2020||64%|
|9||Amazon.com: modded xbox one controller||19%|
|10||T-shirt design maker - Apps on Google Play||33%|
Aps Designer 6.0 Software Free Download
GmbH - 2.9MB - Shareware - WinRAR is a 32-bit/64-bit Windows version of RAR Archiver, the powerful archiver and archive manager. Xbox One S Modded Controller Blackout - Xbox 1 - Master Mod Includes Rapid Fire, Drop Shot, Quick Scope, Sniper Breath, and More - Works for All Shooting Games. Projects include greeting and business cards, calendars, brochures, invites and more. The tool embeds two fonts, a new keyboard, the Rupantar Universal Convertor, a word counter. Main Features - UNICODE and Non-Unicode typing support - With All Languages. Do you like tinkering around with new software? Aps designer 4.0 crack.
IOS Game Hacks, Cheats & More! - iOsGG.com - iOS Gamer
Microsoft which aims to offer integrated and bundled e. Most Android users usually rely on the keyboard app that comes pre-installed on the device. Use of the American Physical Society websites and journals implies that the user has read and agrees to our Terms and Conditions and any applicable Subscription Agreement. If your lens is missing from this list, head over to the full Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/4-5.6 IS STM Lens specifications using the site's Lens Spec Comparison Tool that enables far more comparisons. CFR Part 11 support enhanced (when 21CFR Part 11 Key installed). Well, if you're a PC user, Microsoft has made its Expression Web 4.0 software free of charge - and here illustrator, artist and graphic designer Stefan Lindblad explains why it offers an alternative worth investigating. Microsoft PowerApps is a formidable entry in the low-code development space.
Download aps font for 64bit pc - TristramAngel's blog
Download this app from Microsoft Store for Windows 10. See screenshots, read the latest customer reviews, and compare ratings for Trio Office: Word, Slide, Spreadsheet & PDF Compatible. Download Aps Designer 4 Setup 32 Bit - best software for Windows. BECKHOFF New Automation Technology. Amazon announced it is shutting down the Underground Actually Free program in 2020. Installation on Laptop was a bit difficult because the Drivers had to be downloaded and installed manually. 9 Apps to Hack In-App Purchase in Android - Ultimate Tech read review. Records APS Designer serial numbers, cracks and keygens are presented here.
Key generator ewef team art sales: ewef.net Trading Softwares
It's best if you avoid using common keywords when searching for Aps Designer 4.0. CD-ROM Software Library: Free Software: Free Download https://torgline26.ru/download/?file=194. Windows Live Sync (formerly known as Windows Live FolderShare) is a free-to- use file synchronization application by Microsoft that is designed to allow files. Available for download now. APS Designer is included in Development Tools. Learn math, check homework and study for upcoming tests and ACTs/SATs with the most used math learning App in the world! InMotion Web Hosting Review 4.0 InMotion is a feature-crammed web hosting service that serves a multitude of hosting needs, provided that you don't need a Windows-powered server.
- Farming Simulator 17 APK - Unlimited Money Mod APK Download
- 3 Best Free and Open Source ERP Software
- Download GAME APK Android App Online - Free Pure APK
- NOTHING IS WHAT IT SEEMS: pepakura designer 3 password
- Coriolis EDCD Edition
- Designer Curved-Space Geometry for Relativistic Fermions
- Amazon.com: Grand Theft Auto V Pc: Video Games
Activation code how to Import a Map with Google Earth ... - Designer Hacks
Easy to utilize multy currency Accounting & Stock direct Systems, Complete fiscal and checking stock reports, unconstrained companies, unconstrained fiscal years, BarCode enabled, included APS Report Builder & import wizard. See more apps in Tom's Guide for more Windows Applications and Windows Information. Make your ideas come to life. Kiran Khan (aatirkhan0091) on Pinterest. The designer file updated immediately. I discovered Sparkol VideoScribe" Janet, Florida "If you're in the market of telliing stories for people, and getting paid to do it, then VideoScribe is another very cost-effective tool to have in the box" Sam, Bristol "VideoScribe is an amazing piece of software" Kathryn, Cornwall. How to download aps designer software yah Ek Aisa softwere Hai jiske madat se Aap Apne Coral Draw Aur Photoshop Me Bahut Hi Achchi font me Design Kar Sakte Hai.
How do I play British Tanks? Tea Bias and Masochism- British 2.7-5.7: An Aussie Mantis Review.
submitted by Aussie_Mantis to Warthunder
Section 0: Important stuffs.
Guess who's back. Back again. Manti's back. Tell a friend. Or really just u/Verb_Noun_Number, who enjoys reading these reviews, of which I have done precisely one other. I have no credidentials for this. I am not some God of War. I am not a 6-trillion-years-of-tank-playtime player. I simply honestly enjoy British 3.0/3.74.0/4.7/5.3, and I want to teach people what I know from those BRs so that they may enjoy it too, as many people have difficulty playing at these BRs. This will not be a short post.
NOTE TO ALL READERS:
Now, first off, a disclaimer. I'm not the best tanker, nor the best pilot. If you see something you believe is wrong, tell me, and I'll see what I can do about it.
This post was made in response to u/thermicterror 's post on, "how do British Tanks compete at higher tiers?" I was intending on writing a nice, short little comment. The user claims that british tanks aren't fun to play above 2.7 and for that reason, they have stated that they will not play until Gaijin makes them "more fun to play", but... I know for a fact that they indeed are fun to play, as long as you have your head screwed on.
I realised that maybe- JUST MAYBE- some other people could benefit from this, so I decided to write a larger post. Fueled by tea and some Chicken Crimpy-flavoured Shapes, and in between watching John Scorese flicks and Blackadder... I began to write.
Table of contents:Section I: Introductory Preamble
Section II: Dr. Solid Shot
Section III: Tactics and Tricks
Section I: Introductory PreambleOr, the one where Mantis tells you his Life's Story.
A scene from when I was grinding this account for the first time...
And here I am now... a million miles away. Don't ask where all my GE went or you'll be disgusted at how much premium time and how many low-tier premiums I've been buying.
When I was a young boy grinding out the British Tree for the first time, there was only one thing that I had in mind- Garth Ennis's Battlefields series, or more exactly, the three arcs he wrote on British Tanks- Tankies (featuring a Churchill Mk IV/VII in France, 1944), The Firefly and his Majesty (Rhineland, Late '44/Early '45, No points for figuring out what that was written about) and The Green Fields Beyond (Centurion Mk III in Korea, 1952, featuring the Glosters). These all had the same character- this guy called Sargeant Stiles- who had been in practically every tank that the British had ever done, and, to quote him and his Geordie accent- "Ah've had ev'ry single woon o' them shot oot frae under me."
I remember the scene where he and another veteran from the Second World War- his Tank Squadron's commander- discuss taking a crack at a Tiger II with the gun on the Centurion III, and about its armour- and seeing as my family history is deeply involved with the Korean War and the War in Vietnam, where the Aussies would once more take the Centurion into battle against the NVA and the Viet Cong, I decided that I wanted it. The only thing that stood between me and that was the entirety of the British tree.
I was so sure that the grind would be so easy, and indeed it was good to a point. I got my Crusaders straight off the bat, along with the Daimler AC II and the valentine I, and learned to love them. I even could say that I had a whole 1:1 K/D in the Crusader III. Looking back now, that's... hardly something to brag about, especially now at level 100, but at the time... it was everything. I felt invincible.
Then I hit the cromwells and something inside me just died. Now, keep in mind- this was long, long before the Crusaders and the Valentine I were tier II, the Stuart I and III didn't exist at all, the Matilda III was a tier II tank that stood alone, the Val XI and IX were unfoldered, and I really had no idea what I was doing. My typical game plan was:
My extreme tactical prowess on display. Mind-bogglingly complex, I know.
Understandeably, I was flanked, backstabbed, and very much bamboozled. I would spawn in my cromwell only to die to something I couldn't see, spawn in my crusader and die again, and then in my A13 3RTR and die yet again. I shot at enemies and they never died on the first hit, and for some reason every time they shot at me, I got one-shotted immediately, and those (at the time) annoying little russian fleabags in their T-34s sat in points laughing as bounced 6-pounder shell after 6-pounder shell off their UFP, before they just stopped, stared and then I disappeared off the face of the earth. Years onward, I tried again. Again, I got to the same point with the Cromwell and the Crusader, and then died horribly. I gave up entirely because it simply wasn't fun.
Eventually, though... I came back. Here's the story of how I learned to love Britain.
Section II: Dr Solid ShotOr, how I Learned to Stop Panicking and Aim for the Turret.
Pop Quiz!You popped around a corner, and then a wild tank appeared and now it's staring quite threateningly at you and yet it has not fired yet. You are now in a situation that we experienced players call, "having a significant emotional event". Which of these would you do?
A: Panic. B: Panic and shoot at his general area to drive him off and hopefully hit. C: Give up and hold J to bail out D: "Oh, wait a minute. He's stopped. He's given up!" E: "DRIVER, REVERSE! REVEEEEERSE!" F: Aim at the turret and shoot G: Aim at the front plate and shoot.
Through careful scientific determination of people's responses to Significant Emotional Events in War Thunder Ground RB, I have determined that the most common things that people do are, in order, A, B, and E.
G and F are the most uncommon. As easy as it sounds, it's surprisingly hard to actually calm down and aim properly when you're panicking, which is generally the standard reaction of most players when you find something in front of you or something hits you. With most tanks, if you shoot, you penetrate and you immediately one-shot, because har har, HE filler. It's kind of like FPSes. You pop around the corner and you find someone, so you shoot back in their vicinity with your Generic FPS SpunkGargleWeeWee Level 42069++ xX_Assault_Rifle_Xx, backpedalling faster than a sane man from a Coronavirus Party, and hope you don't die.
(Again, much like the sane man running from the Coronavirus party.)
Unfortunately for you, you're British. One of the most distinguishing factors of the British Tree is its near-complete reliance on Solid Shot. Prior to the addition of the (quite frankly useless) 2-pounder APHE, the only explosive-filler rounds in the entire british tech tree were found on the Sherman II (an improved M4A1 with APCBC(HE) and T45 APCR). The rest of the APHE was found on the A1E1 Independent (Gunboat Diplomacy at its finest) and the Grant I (An M3 Lee with a roomier turret in the British Tree). Even now with the 2-pounder APHE, Solid shot is frankly just better to use, because 2-pounder APHE does less damage than the 2-pounder AP as the explosion doesn't create an appreciably larger number of fragments. This same issue in real life was the entire reason why the British eschewed explosive filler in favour of solid shot, in combination with a defective batch or two of M61 75mm shot making the shells act more like HE.
Aiming is tantamount, and frankly, when you're a new player to ground, it's hard to aim properly at the turret in an acceptable time frame in order to get the firepower kill on the enemy before they shoot half your crew out and leave you as a pillbox/expensive mobile roadblock/a burning wreck. However, when you're panicking, it's hard to breathe, shoot back, and aim while you're doing it. You need to get yourself into routines. You need procedures to fall back on, especially when you've gotten shot at by an enemy and you have NO CLUE how to react. As I keep saying- British tanks cannot simply shoot back at an enemy and get an instantaneous one-shot. You need to respond and aim, instead of reacting and just shooting, so start establishing these Standard Operating Procedures. as you go. My personal one is S I R I U S.
S top and breathe. Calm down and start looking for a way out. I dentify Direction in which the enemy is. Look for the gunsmoke/tracemuzzle flash. R everse/advance to cover (whichever is closer). I dentify target. U se your brain/rangefinder and aim properly, preferably at the enemy's turret/gun. S hoot.
These kinds of routines, once you drill it into yourself, with practice, become second nature. You'll be shooting back and getting kills in no time, tanker.
A tank is a relatively large armoured block with a gun and an engine. Without an engine, it becomes a pillbox, without a gun, it is a mobile radio vehicle, without either it is a rather top-heavy metal paperweight. You need to disable these to make it a sitting duck (top-heavy roadblock).
To do this, you need to know where to aim, especially with solid shot- you need to fire at places that get kill the gunner first, and preferably the driver at the same time, so you can finish off. For this- Protection analysis is amazing. Click on any tank and go to "customization" or "preview". Check that the sidebar is open and set the tab to display "armour".
Just below it all is a tab called "Protection Analysis", with which you can view all the different ways in which you can shoot at a tank. You can change the gun you're shooting at it with and the tank that is shooting, as well as looking at all the different types of ammunition it has. 500m is typically a nice standard engagement range. However, most fights do happen from below 400, especially if you're defending a capture point like the northern points on Jungle. I typically set it to 700 because I favour sniping and long-distance defensive engagement. Let rip. Keep in mind that you won't typically get a nice front-on shot so be prepared for that too! Using this tool, you can discover some weak spots on an enemy tank that you can shoot at! These include but are not limited to:
This really flat bit on the StuG IIIG (kills the driver, gunner and commander in one shot with solid shot 17 pr, or even 6-pounder in some cases.
This section of the Panther's hull just below that bevel is vulnerable to APDS from the Comet/Challenger. One good hit there kills the Driver, Gunner and engine in one fell swoop, and can also kill the commander and loader if you aim right.
The fat turret ring on a T-34 (instant firepower kill due to disabling turret ring)
Section III: Tactics and TricksOr, "what in Tesco's name is a reverse gear? I just want a rock."
In this section, I will discuss tactics and... things you can do. General tips that you'll get from everywhere apply- things like "use the binoculars from behind cover to see things in front of you", "Don't charge across open fields in a straight line or you'll die to snipers", "Take less than 30 rounds of ammo, or typically around 20-25" and "be careful around forested areas" not withstanding.
Regarding crew skills- the same applies for any tank crew here. Keen vision is not important, field repair is a "meh" priority- it's good to have, but it shouldn't take precedence over the Big Four- Targeting/Rangefinding for your gunner,weapon reloading for your loader, and Leadership for your TC. The first three are life-and-death, and the fourth boosts all of them.
At 2.7, most guns you face are 50mm and below, but once you breach 3.0/3.3, you start meeting things like T-34s and panzer IV F2s, which have formidable 75/76mm guns that can practically obliterate you with one shot if you're not careful and you overexpose- and there's half the battle. Play conservatively- not aggressively. Most of your tanks have paper armour and you generally only have decent mobility and a good gun going for you, which means that you're fucked as soon as you exit covego into anywhere open without a plan for what you're doing, since you can't one-shot anything from the side unless you hit an ammo rack, and you absolutely need to aim at specific parts of enemy tanks in order to get a kill, unlike with other tanks at the same BR such as the aforementioned Panzer IV and T-34. The point is that aiming matters- and since your gun reloads fast, you can typically put two shots into the enemy when they've only managed to fire one and start reloading for the next follow-up shot.
In game, as in real life, the British often have some of the most capable anti-tank weapons with high penetration values compared to other guns at their tier- a stand-out example is having a 17-pounder gun at 3.0 and 4.0, BRs where most guns struggle to penetrate above 100/150mm, much less nearly 200mm of penetration, and having a 6-pounder at 2.7- a BR where most armour is still around the 40mm-50mm mark, and you can punch just over the hundred and twenty millimeter mark. However, none of these shells have APHE. Also, as a general rule, if it's got a good gun for its BR, typically the armour is absolute dogshit.
Britain thus rewards you for aiming well at weak spots, knowing what part of an enemy tank is which, figuring out where to shoot the Big Scary Fat Man to ammo rack him/get a firepower kill, and typically if you aim right and have the experience you'll be getting one-shot after one-shot as comically large/fast/high-penetration shells for the BR go in one side of an enemy tank and out the other, or kill the driver, the gunner and the commander and then (of all things) destroys the engine too, because fuck your ability to run away or fight back, you stay right the fuck there and take this second follow-up shot in a ridiculously short reload time as I sip my tea, please and thankyou. What do I mean by "comically short"? The 2-pounder reloads in less than 3 seconds, the 6-pounder on the Crusader and Churchill in 4 seconds sharp, the 17-pounder in 5.9 and the 3.7-inch QF gun on the QF Ram at 5.3 that fires a full-bore 94mm shell penetrating 204mm/8in. of armour in 6 seconds. You don't need to bother with worrying too much about KILLING the tank on the first shot, because if you at least get a firepower kill, you'll be able to follow it up with a second shot relatively quickly.
Subsection A: How do I actually run away?Or, "How do I use a 3km/h reverse gear?"
Something you may have noticed from the Cromwell is that British tanks should not ever reverse.
Want to have fun with British tanks? Don't charge headlong into the fray. Or, for the visual learners amongst you...
What a fucking surprise. Younger me's tactical brilliance was in fact mistaken. Who could've ever known?
Since you play Britain, you need to keep your situational awareness up. While it may be tempting to take your cromwell/Crusader and rush a point and shooty shooty bang bang, this is tantamount to suicide with your thin armour and inability to run in the other direction away from cover. Don't rush the point. Don't head STRAIGHT towards the gunfire at maximum speed or you'll just get thwacked.
As a famed British Philosopher once said in his famed treatise on the meaning of life-
Don't do it, don't you try it baby, Don't do that, don't-don't-don't, Don't do that, You got a good thing going now, Don't do it, don't do it, don't- Don't try suicide, Nobody's worth it! Don't try suicide, Nobody cares! Don't try suicide, You're just gonna hate it! Don't try suicide, Nobody gives a damn!
- Freddy Mercury, "The Game", Chapter 7, 1980.
But how does one... not commit suicide?
Something you may have encountered is that in forested areas you get blasted by tanks that are well-camouflaged, and the first you know of their existence is when their shell smacks into you. How do you defend against something like that? The thing with this is that you just need to look hard. Don't be the first to push- and if you are, look around real hard. Dead giveaways of enemy tanks include random barrels sticking out of bushes, antennae sticking out from behind rocks or near trees that there shouldn't be, and of course, smoke kicked up by a muzzle flash. Generally, they won't be moving, either, so aim carefully and shoot. Use the binoculars and sniper scopes to confirm whether they are tanks or not. The first few times you do these you'll be playing a game that I used to play, called, "Is that bush/rock a tank?" Sometimes you'll jump at shadows and shoot at rocks and bushes, but with practice, you'll be able to spot and destroy the enemy before they do the same to you.
In urban areas, stop and look both ways before you cross the street.
Pictured: Your Churchill after you don't look both ways on a street in Vietnam, Advance to the Rhine, Berlin or any other map with streets and junctions.
When you're going towards a point, often you don't expect that little @#*$ing @%$* @$+^% #&$*@&!!!! who parked in a spot just around the corner who you don't see and get sidepenned by. Especially with British tanks, whose tanks already aren't known for their particularly impressive armour- with the exception of the Big Boys like the Matilda in Tier II and the Churchill III/VII in Tier III- you need to check both sides of the street before you cross. Stop just behind a junction and use freelook- typically bound to C, but in my case it is bound to Alt for easier thumbing- to look on both sides. Is it clear? Then cross and go wherever you need to go. Is it not clear? Traverse your turret in the direction of the enemy and push carefully. Especially with the thinly-armoured cruiser tanks (Cromwell, Sherman, Challenger, Avenger, Crusader etc etc) you might actually just be better off finding a way around. You're a cruiser tank. You go fast. Unlike many other tanks you have the leeway to zip around. But what if you're driving a tank that doesn't have that leeway?This leads perfectly into my next point.
Subsection B: How Pley Chorchell?One of the main things I come across on WT forums and reddit is people saying that the Churchills are dogshit and Britain only has viable sniper tanks, which... well, let me explain.
At first glance, the Churchills do not look like heavy tanks at a BR where the next competitors for the role- the KV-1 ZiS-5- has one hundred millimeters of armour (flat). Unlike the KVs, whose guns can pen a lot of things at 4.3 or at least do acceptable post-pen damage when it does, the 4.0 Churchill only has 89mm of completely flat, unsloped armour with an awkwardly large gap for the MG port, and the 57mm gun only fires solid-shot AP that doesn't spall enough to do any damage beyond the place you fire at. The III plays more like a beefy, slow medium tank than a true heavy thanks to this, but if you angle, you can bounce german 75mm shells all day. The turret's flat armour is however a glaringly large weakspot that you need to protect, so don't think you can stick around for long in a hot zone. The armour will hold for as long as you need to reverse into cover.
The 4.7 one is subject to uptiers where the Jumbo and German Big Cats reign supreme, and the 75mm gun at 4.7 cannot penetrate much. The armour, when flat and unangled, is absolutely horrible and vulnerable to anything with a gun that has a caliber above 75mm, including tigers, panthers and the other german big cats.
Both Churchills need support from tanks with bigger guns to succeed, and typically you should squad with one person in an achilles and one in a churchill, so that you have a decent mix of guns and if you can't pen it, the Achilles will. The Achilles can lag behind and cover a narrow field of view in front of you while you leave light tanks/medium tanks to clear the flanks around you, and if you find something, designate the target and your pet achilles can roll up and take it out. Just like in real life.
With the Churchill, angle your hull. This can at the very least double the amount of protection you have against the enemy, or do funny things like:
Yes, you are reading right- that says 984mm of protection against one of the best guns at its BR. Nothing says \"Fuck you, I'm staying here\" than nearly a metre of armour.
When in an open area in any churchill- keep your enemies between 10:30-11:30, and 12:30-1:30. These angles maximise the amount of armour that you show to the enemy, and the 10:30-11:30 position allows you to shield your machine-gun port from the enemy- a weakspot universal on both churchills, and even the premium German version.
If you're in a Churchill... sidescrape or front-bait, depending on the BR. Generally, it'll be sidescraping (especially with the Churchill III) but if you're in a downtier against 4.7s with the VII, you can risk the front-bait. The only thing at that BR getting through you frontally is a Panzer IV/70 (A), one of the italian 90mms (when you're close and unangled), or a Flak 88 on the German Flakbus. The Churchill III simply does not have the frontal armour to withstand a hit from the 88mm or the 90mm, but with luck can stand up to the long 75 that the Germans have.
1 and 2 indicate the different phases. Dotted lines shows shooting, solid arrows movement.
While you're behind adequate cover, the enemy cannot shoot at you. While angled, the enemy cannot easily pen you. Aim for the turret/gun so that you can make the most out of the relatively small guns for your BR that the Churchills have. The 6-pounder is a little long in the tooth at 4.0 against heavier opposition (KVs and sometimes StuGs at certain angles), and at 4.7 the 75mm is a joke, useful only against the odd KV-1(C), M4 Tipo ICs, the odd Panzer IV and Sturer Emil, and Panzer IV 70 (A)s when they expose that large flat 80mm portion of their comically tall casemate.
To front-bait, angle and advance forward out of cover, covering the weak-spot on the left side of the hull (MG Port) by angling that side towards the enemy (the massive trackguards cover it up, making it harder to spot). Keep your turret angled and only when the enemy has shot their rounds, shoot back, so that they don't penetrate the flat armour on your turret. Front-bait with the enemy to your left in order to hide your MG port.
To sidescrape, angle and reverse out of cover, letting that thick side armour ricochet most of the enemy's shots, and again, keep your turret angled. Shoot back once they've shot their piece. Side-scrape with the enemy to your right in order to hide your MG port.
Move one track forward and the other one back Fuckin' slide around like on a Nordic Track Bait to the left, Scrape to the right, Angle your turret and go into the fight. It's the- It's the- It's the Churchie dance~
Section IV: Lineups above 2.7Or: "HONEY! WHERE'S MY SEVENTEEN-POUNDER!?"
At 3.3 and 3.7, you don't really have much choice. There is a 3.0 lineup that you can make consisting of the Valentine IX, Archer and the Churchill Gun Carrier (which plays like a tall churchill with good armour for its BR, neutral steering and a decent gun), but people mostly go for the 3.7 lineup, which is Cromwells, a single solitary sherman, and not much else unless you want to uptier the Archer or Valentine. The basic instinct that players have is to add the new shiny tank to their lineup Now, Now, now, and quite frankly for Britain you cannot do that as uptiers are already bad enough, and uptiering above certain BRs crosses armour boundaries that your tank cannot penetrate, which is where you start to have issues, since in the slower tanks (Valentines for the most part) you can't flank because they're so slow and their armour becomes literally useless. Starting at 4.0 you have an excellent lineup with a 17 pounder and a 6-pounder, and the 4.7 lineup is pretty good too, as is 5.3- but the thing is, notice how I say lineup. If you bring 4.0s into 4.7, you're gonna have a bad time. Let alone 3.7s. I've seen terrible lineups, such as a Sherman Firefly paired with both Cromwells or the Valentines (an excuse to die instantly to Big Cats), and things you'd never believe, like the 4.0 Churchill in a 5.3 lineup because their user "forgot" to grind out the 4.7 one, which is the only one with armour that even stands a chance at that BR. So, since this post is already long enough- here are my lineups and what each tank is used for. If you would like me to be more specific about anything, just ask me.
Matilda III: Heavy/Medium tank used for pushing points. No angling due to weak spots on sloped frontal armour. 40mm gun is 50/50 at 2/7 and often causes more problems than it alleviates.
Crusader III: Light tank that has the gun of a medium tank. An excellent point capper, with an amazing gun but bad armour. Stay mobile and move from one position to the other, and if possible stay in urban, cluttered or forested areas where you can use your low profile and good gun to get snapshots on enemy tanks (Urban/cluttered) or snipe enemies from afar with the good gun (forests) while staying hidden from the enemy and out of the open due to your thin armour. Also gets active scouting so that's another reason to stay on the move.
Hurricane Mk IV: 40mm CAS that is good at killing anything it sees, best used with 500m convergence with Vertical Targeting. Can be substituted for the Hurricane Mk IIB/trop, which has 12 7.7mms (best used with 300 or 400m convergence) and 6 RP-3 rockets that can one-shot anything... if it hits. This is hard for new players and hence why I encourage use of the Mark IV, as it uses guns.
Valentine XI: 75mm gun tank that is useful for sniping, capping points and when angled is a decent medium tank. The tank itself has a solid turret which is hard to penetrate, but the hull has some funny parts and weak spots you'll need to deal with. Always keep your enemy between 10-11/1-2 o'clock to maximize your armour. The tank is slow and will not reach cap points first and has weak side armour, so watch your flanks and peek around corners carefully. It can't front-bait too well but it can sidescrape decently if you get past the 2.8km/h reverse gear. This tank is a glass cannon due to its weird armour (when not angled) and the fact that it only has three crew. If the enemy gets a solid hit on the turret, you're out, so be careful!
Valentine I: same as the Val XI, but with a worse turret and gun but better side armour.
Crusader II: Crusader III but with worse gun and better turret and a front MG secondary turret that tends to catch APHE rounds and shield your main fighting compartment. If possible, angle it towards the enemy- it's worth losing a crewmember to protect the rest of the people in your tank.
AEC AA: Good AAA but also decent at killing tanks from the side if you decide to run around being annoying.
Wellington: Can be switched out for another tank (typically the Valentine XI). Carries the 4000lbs bomb which can clear a cap point assuming you get to the target.
Archer: Excellent sniping tank with an easy escape: you just drive forwards to go backwards. The gun is amazing. However, the tank needs a bit of range and a bit of cover to perform well as the tank's armour is absolutely pitiful, even with the volumetric armour update (which doesn't affect it that much).
Valentine IX: The same as the XI but with a better gun and no MG. It also has a much better turret.
Cromwell I/V: Essentially the same tank but the V has a worse gun. These tanks should be used like light tanks/oversized crusaders since their armour is absolutely pitiful. There's a reason why these 1944 tanks fight mostly '41-'43 tanks. Stay mobile, stay behind cover, make sure you look both ways before crossing the street, stay out of the open as much as possible. These tanks cannot reverse and if you need to go backwards, either neutral-steer around and do it, or go forwards towards another bit of cover instead. For their BRs, the gun is decent but it's still completely solid shot.
Sherman II: Dogshit. Sucks balls and I hate it. Has APHE but that's about it- the armour is a slightly better M4A1 hull with a slightly smaller 20mm weakspot on the hull roof. It still gets penned by wirbelwinds frontally and fortunately it doesn't have the 38.1mm sides that aren't worth shit. The .50 caliber machine gun is useful against low-flying aircraft and lightly-armoured targets like the annoying R3s and Pumas you come across at this BR, but against those types of hull-breakable ground targets there's no reason you shouldn't just shoot at them with the main gun.
Crusader AA MK II: A beefier AEC AA on the Crusader III Chassis.
Hellcat Mk II: A premium that carries 2*1000lbs bombs and 6 HVARs (which pen less but are easier to aim than RP-3s) as well as fifty-cals. Good performance against air targets and ground targets. Can be switched out for the Beaufighter Mk 21, which carries 8 RP-3s, 4 .50 cals and 4 Hispano Mk IIs, which is heavy but packs a formidable punch.
Churchill III: Decent armour for its BR, and a good gun, but should not be used without support from lighter tanks or from vehicles with bigger guns. Explained in depth above in Section III, subsection B.
Achilles: Good sniper tank with a low profile. Go hull-down behind defilades and typically in areas with lots of bushes to hide yourself, and let rip at an enemy. There is nothing at 4.0 that your gun will not penetrate and frankly it's just a meme. The armour is thin and the ammo is all in the side of the hull, and the turret does not rotate very fast, as well as being open top- watch out for enemy air attack, don't stay in one place too long, and play defensively. Don't stick your nose into areas you shouldn't when you could be firing at the enemy from far away with your excellent gun ballistics. Support your team from the rear by throwing 17 pounders at pesky sniping tanks that're bothering them, and use your decent maneuverability to get into good spots that overlook cap points or strategic choke points, or wherever your teammates happen to be pushing. Keep an eye on your flanks, though! You're a favorite target for Pumas, R3s and other mobile tanks, and if people recognize you, they'll make you a priority target due to your big gun.
Hellcat Mk II: Can be switched out for the Firefly Mk V when necessary at this BR, which carries 16 RP-3s- which is a significant load. However, as stated before- RP-3s are harder to aim than bombs or guns.
Tempest Mk V (Vickers P): A Hurricane IV for 4.0-5.7. At this BR its performance (the FM is the same as the 5.7 Tempest V) is ridiculous.
I kept the Achilles here because it has the same gun and there was no other 4.7 tank I could shove in.
Sherman Firefly/Sherman IC "Trzyniec": Excellent sniper tank with decent armour (when it has the additional armour package). The IC has extra armour on the side of the hull and most importantly in front of the gunner on the turret.
Avenger: A cromwell with a 17 pounder. Use it as such. It can be played like a more mobile M10 with turret traverse and roof armour if need be, but just be aware that if you ahve to push poitns or run around a city flanking and spanking, it can do so. Absolutely ridiculous on urban maps where you can zip around alleyways and appear in the enemy's rear or flank when they least expect it, but since it is a Cromwell (or at least the Chassis is a variant thereof), don't pretend to be a heavy tank.
Churchill VII: Heavier Churchill III. The gun is pitiful, and the armour amazing- be at the head of a push but don't go without support from your allies. Again, described in Section III, Subsection B.
Crusader AA Mk I: Has a Bofors and can now penetrate 72mm of armour if it has to, but it's still better as an AA aircraft. Fires slower than the Mk II but rewards more per hit- it's down to playstyle as to which Crusader AA you bring in.
Typhoon Mk Ib/Mk Ib/Late : Good CAS aircraft with RP-3s and Hispanos. Can be switched for the Brigand B1 or the Hellcat F II or the Firefly Mk V if you deem it necessary.
QF 3.7-inch Ram: An excellent ground gift vehicle from Operation Frost 2019-2020. The vehicle has an excellent gun and amazing armour penetration with the ability to slice through neraly 8 inches of armour with little to no effort, but unlike sabot it has trouble going through the front hull of panthers.
Comet I: First British tank you'll encounter with Sabot and thus the first one that can do the Two-Step Good-bye to Panthers- aim at the bevel on the side of the hull where the two holes in the turret are, kill the driver, gunner and commander in one strike, reload in 6 seconds and finish off on the other side of the hull. Still a cromwell hull but with a very good gun mantlet, especially after volumetric armour update- Go hull-down if possible so your hull isn't exposed, and stay at range. Cap points where necessary but don't overextend, and peek well around corners so that you don't get a nasty surprise. Play this like a cromwell with an even better gun.
Brigand B1: Heavy CAS option with a massive payload of 2*1000lbs bombs, or 2*500lbs bombs with 16 RP-3s. Excellent at demolishing enemy tanks. It also has dive brakes, which helps, and four hispano Mk Vs for taking on Me-410s. It's still not a fighter, though, and it will have trouble dealing with more maneuverable enemies.
Sea Fury FB 11: Lighter CAS option that carries 2*500lbs bombs or 12 RP-3s or 4 Triplex RP-3s. I haven't gotten the Triplexes yet, but with the RP-3s, generally you don't need to load them, as the 12 RP-3s still work at this BR from top-down shots that are much easier to aim than the side-on shots that the other aircraft can do. This plane also swats 190s and yaks out of the skies with ease with its maneuverability, speed, and fast-firing hispano Mk Vs.
Avenger: can be switched out for the Challenger at this BR, which is the same thing but with sabot, and a much higher profile. The Challenger is a good sniping tank but suicidal used otherwise. If you don't mind the uptier you can also use the Centurion Mk I- a tank that personally, I have never used (I went straight to the Mark III and the FV 4202 at 6.7, which are excellent tanks with good armour that make the low-tier suffering all worth it in the end). Apparently after Volumetric Armour the tank's weak spots have decreased, but the turret is still pretty flat and only 127mm, so... that sucks.
British Tier II and III are hard. DOn't get me wrong here- the grind is difficult, and often a long, arduous slog. But I hope that I can help you get the most out of your tanks, and at least give you some enjoyment, by teaching you some of the things which help you not get killed immediately after leaving the spawn. Solid shot is a pain when everyone else has APHE, but... hell. You've got those monstrous penetration values at all BRs, so...
The key to British Tank play is knowing what you're doing and playing with your head screwed on. DOn't play taking excessive risks- know when to push and when not to, be careful and keep your head on a swivel. Learn to aim at key components and key areas on a tank for maximal effect, because once you do...
You'll be here with the best of us.
Godspeed, young ones. I'll see you at the Centurions in the Green Fields Beyond.
Chanceme to Low-Mid tier UCs and UCLA, especially for UCI
I'm starting to apply to the UCs, specifically SD, Davis, Irvine, Riverside, SB, LA, and Irvine. However, I'm scared my stats arent that great especially for SD and Irvine. I'm gonna be applying for the CS major in all colleges and Aerospace Engineering for all but Riverside (I will do something with Computer engineering or something)
Heres my stats so far:
Middle School (All A's):
- Algebra 1
- Spanish 1
- Earth Science
- Honors Geometry
- Honors Physics 1 (1 semester)
- Honors Chem 1 (1 semester)
- Honors English 9
- Honors Modern American History
- Spanish 2
- Health (1 semester)
- Honors English 10
- Honors Algebra 2
- AP Government (1 semester)
- Honors Economics (1 semester)
- Honors Biology 1
- Honors Physics 2 (1 semester)
- Honors Chemistry 2 (1 semester)
- Spanish 3
- IB English A Lit (year 1)
- IB Spanish (A or B) (year 1)
- Foods and Nutrition (1 semester)
- Astronomy (1 semester)
- Euro History (1 semester)
- Ancient World History (1 semester)
- Contemporary International Studies (aka geography and 20th century history) (1 semester)
- Physics 3 (1 semester)
- Design 1 (art)
- IB Physics HL (year 1)
- IB Spanish B IB
- English A Lit (year 2)
- AP Calculus AB
- Chem 3 (1 semester)
- Accounting and Financing 1
- Design 2 (art)
- Computer Programming and Logic - 92.33 (0-100 scale)
- Java Programming - in progress
My GPA weighted is 4.42 weighted UC style
For my extracurriculars, I am doing:
- Tennis JV
- (I'm gonna find some volunteering stuff online. I also got a job offer which I will be debating on)
- National honor society
- Tennis JV (sophmore)
- Violin (freshman-sophmore)
- SPCA volunteering (junior) - 7 hours
- Middle School tutoring - 5 hours
- Volunteering at local Air Museum Kids event (junior) - 4 hours
- Volunteering at multiple elementary school parties (fresmhan-junior) - 11.5 hours
- Volunteering for a middle school event (freshman) - 2 hours
- Volunteering in libraries (sophmore and junior summer) - 15 hours
- Volunteering for a marathon (freshman) - 3 hours
- Volunteering for a kids art summer camp (freshman + sophomore summer) - 33.5 hours
- Highest Honors (basically all of high school) for GPA of 4.0 weighted and above
- Piano -
- MMTA state finals 2017-18
- MMTA semifinals 2015-19
- a bunch of scholarships worth over $10K
SAT (ik UCs might not accept UCs anymore because of the State Government)
- SAT: 1410
- 690 EBRW
- 720 Math
- 6-5-6 essay
- Subject tests
- Math Level 2 - will take next month
For my personal statements I will write about
- #7: how I became a more patient person when helping kids at the art museum
- #6: how a community college course inspired me to go into CS
- #3: how I learned to enjoy playing the piano even more than I ever had through a piano camp
- #5: my struggles with autism, how I was discriminated/harassed, and how I overcame it with developing meaningful friendships with my best friends
Are my stats bad, and will I likely get into UCI and maybe have a shot at LA?
EDIT: format of post improved, added a bunch of information